Festivals & events in Buenos Aires

Festivals & events in Buenos Aires Creamfields music festival
By Melanie Kramers

The party of all parties is coming to Buenos Aires in 2010, when Argentina celebrates 200 years of independence on 25 May. Plans are still to be finalised, but the festivities will undoubtedly involve some spectacular concerts, dazzling pyrotechnics, buckets of red wine and dancing in the streets.
Information

The superb bilingual city government tourist website www.bue.gov.ar is a good port of call for information on local cultural events. Other useful guides are the hip and helpful www.whatsupbuenosaires.com, and www.letstango.com.ar, which has art and music listings as well as tango. Otherwise, newspapers: Página 12 (www.pagina12.com.ar) on Thursdays, Clarín (www.clarin.com) on Fridays, the English-language Buenos Aires Herald (www.buenosairesherald.com) or tourist information points are your best sources.
Critic's choice
Fashion Buenos Aires

Where: Hilton Buenos Aires
When: Mar & Sept
Tel & website: 4982 4074/www.buenosairesmoda.com
The latest fads from local designers grace the catwalk in Buenos Aires' twice-yearly, five-day fashion week: the winter collection is presented in March, the summer one in September. Over 30 labels show off their wares to 13,000 guests per day. Pay around AR$10 to hang out with willowy beauties, catty fashionistas and other people who would happily spend a month's wages on a pair of sandals.
Festival Internacional de Cine Independiente

Where: Hoyts Abasto & other cinemas
When: mid-late Apr
Website: www.bafici.gov.ar
Hugely popular ten-day showcase for international non-Hollywood films, including the work of local directors. It attracts a couple of big-name filmmakers and high-profile actors usually seen only at the likes of the Cannes or Berlin film festivals.
La Rural

Where: Predio La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201, y Sarmiento, Palermo
When: end July-Aug
Website: www.exposicionrural.com.ar
The Exposición de Ganadería, Agricultura e Industria Internaciona – known as La Rural – is the nation's supremely important two-week farm fair. Lambs, rams, pigs and other farm animals get a look-in, but it's the bulls who enjoy the most respect. The best events are the madly macho gaucho stunts. This is also the time of year when BA's peñas (folklore nights) fill with genuine foot-stamping cowboys.
Buenos Aires Tango Festival

Where: various theatres & cultural centres
When: mid Aug
Website: www.festivaldetango.gob.ar
This is the big one: it's the city's – and therefore the world's – most important tango festival, a nine-day extravaganza of concerts, shows, free classes, exhibitions, open-air milongas (Avenida Corrientes is closed for a massive dance off) and other tango-related festivities. If you're in town, don't miss it. If you're a tango fan, plan your trip around it.
Abierto Argentino de Polo

Where: Campo Argentino de Polo
When: mid Nov-mid Dec
Tel & website: Asociación Argentina de Polo 4343 0972/www.aapolo.com
Argentina has long been polo's spritual home, producing the world's top stars both on four legs and two. Held at Palermo's magnificent 16,000 capacity Campo Argentino de Polo, the Argentinian Polo Open is the sport's annual highlight.
January-March
Chinese New Year

Where: along Arribeños 2000-2200 blocks, Belgrano
When: Jan or Feb
Tel: Chinese Embassy 4541 5085
This small-scale day-long festival is an explosion of colour and clamour in Belgrano's tiny Chinatown, known locally as Barrio Chino. Local restaurants set up stalls on the streets and dole out dim sum.
Carnaval

Where: plazas & social clubs throughout Buenos Aires
When: Feb
Website: www.buenosaires.gov.ar
Don't expect Rio or New Orleans – here, festivities are on a smaller, albeit still enthusiastic scale, with local groups of murga drummers and dancers performing in plazas, and a parade down Avenida de Mayo. The best carnivals in the region are in the Uruguayan capital, Montevideo, while in Argentina the main action is in Gualeguaychú (pronounced Gwal-ay-gwah-CHOO) in Entre Ríos.
Abierto de Tenis de Buenos Aires

Where: Buenos Aires Lawn Tenis Club
When: Feb
Tel & website: 4772 0983/www.copatelmex.com
BA's annual Tennis Open gives locals the rare opportunity to watch their own players slug it out on the city's premier clay courts. Home-grown stars include David Nalbandian and Guillermo Cañas.
Opera Season

Where: Teatro Colón
When: Mar-Dec
Tel & website: box office 4378 7344/www.teatrocolon.org.ar
The opera seasons have been thrown into disarray somewhat with the problems delaying the reopening of the stunning Teatro Colón. However, in all theatres the season officially opens its curtains in early March, with ballet, opera and classical concerts. Look out for brilliant pianist/conductor Daniel Barenboim's annual return.
South American Music Conference

Where: Centro Costa Salguero, Avenida Rafael Obligado, y Salguero, Costanera Norte
When: Mar
Website: www.samc.net
This world-class electronic music event, uniting DJs from around the globe, has helped establish BA as the dance capital of South America. Expect seminars on trance and techno as well as a mammoth closing party that will leave your ears ringing for days.
Fashion Buenos Aires

Where: Hilton Buenos Aires
When: Mar & Sept
Tel & website: 4982 4074/www.buenosairesmoda.com
The latest fads from local designers grace the catwalk in Buenos Aires' twice-yearly, five-day fashion week: the winter collection is presented in March, the summer one in September. Over 30 labels show off their wares to 13,000 guests per day. Pay around AR$10 to hang out with willowy beauties, catty fashionistas and other people who would happily spend a month's wages on a pair of sandals.
April-June
Festival Internacional de Cine Independiente

Where: Hoyts Abasto & other cinemas
When: mid-late Apr
Website: www.bafici.gov.ar
Hugely popular ten-day showcase for international non-Hollywood films, including the work of local directors. It attracts a couple of big-name filmmakers and high-profile actors usually seen only at the likes of the Cannes or Berlin film festivals.
Feria Internacional del Libro

Where: Predio La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201, y Avenida Sarmiento, Palermo
When: mid Apr-May
Website: www.el-libro.org.ar
The annual BA Book Fair is a monster three weeks of readings, book signings and debates, some in English. Geared much more towards readers than publishers, the fair attracts an incredible 1.2m bookworms plus authors from all over the globe.
ArteBA

Where: Predio La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201, y Avenida Sarmiento, Palermo
When: mid May
Website: www.arteba.com
National and international galleries, specialist publishers, artists and collectors (not to mention 110,000 paying punters) descend on this week-long art fair, which has evolved into one of the best- attended and most-hyped cultural events in Latin America, displaying the works of hundreds of artists from Argentina and overseas.
Aniversario de la Revolución de Mayo

Where: Plaza de Mayo
When: 25 May
Tel: Museo del Cabildo 4334 1782
The humble celebration of the 1810 revolution begins at midnight the day before, when people gather in front of the Cabildo for a lusty rendition of the (lengthy) national anthem. At 8pm on the 25th, the crowds mass again for another patriotic singalong.
July-September
Día de la Independencia

Where: across Argentina
When: 9 July
Although the main events are held in freedom's birthplace in the north-western city of Tucumán, cafés along Avenida de Mayo serve up traditional hot chocolate with churros (doughnuts) and a solemn mass at the cathedral is attended by the president, who is forced to sit through a tongue-lashing homily delivered by the city's archbishop.
La Rural

Where: Predio La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201, y Sarmiento, Palermo
When: end July-Aug
Website: www.exposicionrural.com.ar
The Exposición de Ganadería, Agricultura e Industria Internacional – known as La Rural – is the nation's supremely important two-week farm fair. Lambs, rams, pigs and other farm animals get a look-in, but it's the bulls who enjoy the most respect. The best events are the madly macho gaucho stunts. This is also the time of year when BA's peñas (folklore nights) fill with genuine foot-stamping cowboys.
Buenos Aires Tango Festival

Where: various theatres & cultural centres
When: mid Aug
Website: www.festivaldetango.gob.ar
This is the big one: it's the city's – and therefore the world's – most important tango festival, a nine-day extravaganza of concerts, shows, free classes, exhibitions, open-air milongas (Avenida Corrientes is closed for a massive dance off) and other tango-related festivities. If you're in town, don't miss it. If you're a tango fan, plan your trip around it.
World Tango Championships

Where: various theatres and cultural centres
When: late Aug
Website: www.tangodata.gov.ar
Prequalifying stages, strict rules and an eagle-eyed jury (Simon Cowell has nothing on these guys) are just a few of the hurdles awaiting those couples attempting to become the World Tango Champions. The prize money is small but the prestige is priceless, and those with two left feet can marvel at the leg flicking athleticism and passionate clinches on stage.
Feria de Vinos y Bodegas

Where: Predio La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201, y Sarmiento, Palermo
When: early Sept
Website: www.inasuvid.com.ar
Vineyards from around Argentina exhibit at the country's biggest wine fair, aimed at popularising home-grown brands. Grape connoisseurs can enjoy four glorious days of wine swilling with over 1,000 different labels to sample, as well as specialist tastings, seminars, and master chef demonstrations on what dishes to best accompany your vino with.
Festival Internacional de Teatro Buenos Aires

Where: Teatro San Martín & other theatres
When: every 2 years; next Sept 2009
Website: www.festivaldeteatroba.gov.ar
Buenos Aires' major performing arts festival, this is an impressive fortnight of Argentinian and international theatre, dance and performances.
October-December
Festival Martha Argerich

Where: Teatro Colón
When: Oct
Tel & website: box office 4378 7344/www.teatrocolon.org.ar
Renowned Argentinian pianist Martha Argerich wows her legions of fans during this high-profile ten-day celebration of classical music, which includes Argerich's virtuoso solo performances as well as ensemble pieces with famous guests.
Alvear Fashion & Arts

Where: along Avenida Alvear, Recoleta
When: Oct-Nov
A one-week, red-carpet exhibition of local painters, sculptors and photographers held at the high-end boutiques and galleries on BA's swankiest avenue, recently voted among the top five shopping areas in the world. Also includes talks on issues in contemporary art and what rags we'll be wearing.
Casa Foa

Where: venue varies
When: Oct-Nov
Website: www.casafoa.com
Going strong for over two decades, this cutting-edge design fair presents new trends in the world of architecture, garden and interior design, providing stylish inspiration on how best to personalise your home.
Código País

Where: venue varies
When: Nov
Website: www.codigopais.com
As well as showcasing the talents of innovative new artists, photographers and designers, Código País is dedicated to opening your eyes to new possibilities, through an eclectic programme of independent film screenings, live DJs, sustainable fashion workshops, avant-garde theatre and even an 'erotic space'.
Maratón de Buenos Aires

When: Nov
Website: www.maratondebuenosaires.com
Roadrunners clog Avenida 9 de Julio in this annual marathon. The start and finish line is the Obelisco. As well as the international race there's a 'fun run' and a four-kilometre mini marathon for children.
Marcha del Orgullo Gay

Where: Plaza de Mayo
When: 1st Sat in Nov
Website: www.marchadelorgullo.org.ar
BA's ever growing Gay Pride March gathers gays, lesbians, trannies and heteros for a serious protest parade through the city centre, and an even more serious party in the city's nightclubs afterwards. It might not be as big as its Sydney or Sao Paulo counterparts but it's seriously fun.
Creamfields

Where: Autodrómo de Buenos Aires
When: early Nov
Website: www.creamfields.com
This one-day dance music festival has a relationship with rain similar to Glastonbury, but a bit of mud doesn't deter 60,000 party-loving porteños from stepping out in their finest for 15 hours of non-stop raving. International DJs such as Carl Cox and The Chemical Brothers get behind the decks, and a turn by local boy Hernán Cattáneo is pretty much a given.
Día de la Tradición

Where: Feria de Mataderos; or San Antonio de Areco, BA province
When: weekend nearest 12 Nov
Website: www.feriademataderos.com.ar; Tourist Office 02326 453165/www.sanantoniodeareco.com
The annual gaucho day has regional food and music and impressive displays of horsemanship. The town of San Antonio de Areco, 113 kilometres (70 miles) north-west of the capital, or BA's Feria de Mataderos, are the places to be.
Gran Premio Nacional

Where: Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo
When: mid Nov
Tel & website: 4778 2880/www.palermo.com.ar
First run in 1884, Argentina's top annual horse race attracts knowledgeable punters and social climbers alike. In recent years it's become a day-long event with plenty of track-side entertainment and celebrity spotting. Dress appropriately – hats are not essential ladies, but for men, the jumper draped louchely over the shoulders is a must.
Abierto Argentino de Polo

Where: Campo Argentino de Polo
When: mid Nov-mid Dec
Tel & website: Asociación Argentina de Polo 4343 0972/www.aapolo.com
Argentina has long been polo's spritual home, producing the world's top stars both on four legs and two. Held at Palermo's magnificent 16,000 capacity Campo Argentino de Polo, the Argentinian Polo Open is the sport's annual highlight.
Festival Buenos Aires Danza Contemporánea

Where: Teatro San Martín & other theatres
When: every 2 years in Dec; next in 2010
Website: www.buenosairesdanza.gob.ar
For two weeks only, once every two years, tango takes a back seat and BA's sometimes overlooked modern dance scene twirls on to centre stage. Theatres around the city present the best in local as well as international talent.
Festival Buen Día

Where: venue varies
When: mid Dec
Website: www.festivalbuendia.net
An ultra laid-back affair, this youth-oriented open-air party kicks off with a relaxed afternoon of browsing stylish fashion, music, photography and craft stalls, and climaxes with a host of live bands performing beneath the stars.
Public holidays

The following feriados, or public holidays, are fixed from year to year:

New Year's Day 1 January
Jueves Santo (Thursday before Easter)
Viernes Santo (Good Friday)
Labour Day 1 May
May Revolution Day 25 May
Independence Day 9 July
Day of the Immaculate Conception 8 December
Christmas 25 December

For the following, the day of the holiday moves to the Monday before if it falls on a Tuesday or Wednesday, or to the Monday following if it falls Thursday to Sunday:

Falklands/Malvinas War Veterans Day 2 April
Flag Day 20 June
San Martín Memorial Day 17 August
Columbus Day 12 October

Source: http://www.timeout.com

In BuenosAries, Tourists are Charged The Same as The Locals

It happens in many places in the world trying to hire a service or enter a museum or park, you find that there are different prices for tourists and for those who live there. For in Buenos Aires, a failure of justice has taken the first step that everyone must pay the same.

This is because a consumer advocacy association made a complaint because the tourist bus which runs the most important attractions of Buenos Aires to charge a price higher Argentines and other foreigners. Then the court has decided to equate things and that all who decide to use the service pay as well.

Although it’s unfortunate the situation is that the company owns the buses decided to raise prices. Of course, since before the verdict, the locals paid 25 pesos (4.80 euros), the rest of the Argentines 30 (5.80 euros) and foreigners 50 (9.70). For now everyone should pay 70 pesos (13.55) for the ride.

Thus, the company complies with the law that prohibits abusive practices as it is charging different prices to foreigners, but, in turn, increases overnight, prices by 180% for Argentine citizens. Good news accompanied by a bad solution.

In any case, the court decision opens a door of hope for other services and facilities begin to enforce the law and that in its pricing, both Argentines and tourists are treated equally. An example that should propagate the world.

Source: http://www.tourshelp.com/in-buenos-aires-tourists-are-charged-the-same-as-the-locals.html

Book Fair Kicks off in Buenos Aires

April 22, 2010. With all stands set up and the books on the shelves, the 36th Book Fair opens today at La Rural Exhibition Hall. For the first time, the opening ceremony shall be led by Teresa Parodi and Víctor Heredia. The musicians shall read texts my Argentine authors who refer to the 200 Years since the Independence.

Under the motto "Celebrate through books 200 years of stories" the Spanish language largest book fair of its kind and one of the most important cultural and publishing events in Latin America - which each year gathers over a million people- shall open its doors today until May, 10th in La Rural in the Buenos Aires city neighborhood of Palermo.

Adding to the foreign visitors, who are one of the main attractions of the fair, are the most important Argentine authors who, as is customary every year, shall make the most of the unique scenario the Fair offers to present their latest works.

In a 37 thousand square meter space, those visitors and lovers of literature shall be able to visit stands representing over 1300 exhibitors which will include the most prestigious publishing houses, distributors and book shops from Argentina and from around the world.

In addition to round tables, conferences, book signing, courses, book presentations, shows and activities for the whole family, that the fair offers, La Rural shall be one of the venues of the II Borges-Kafka / Buenos Aires-Prague Biennial.

To reflect upon our country's two hundred years, there will be a "Bicentenary Meeting" on April, 26th, 28th and 29th., which will include two master lectures by Ernesto Laclau and Luis Alberto Romero, divided into three days which have the objective of understanding Argentina in the last 200 hundred years and outlining possible future horizons.

Source: http://english.telam.com.ar

Hotels in Buenos Aires-World-class accommodation abounds, no matter the style or budget

By Matt Chesterton, Daniel Neilson and Cat Scully

From backpackers to hip thirtysomethings, from wealthy businessmen and their families to elderly adventure hunters, they are all heading to Buenos Aires, lured by a devalued peso, a cosmopolitan attitude and rich cultural heritage.

But the huge increase in tourism since 2001 took many by surprise, resulting in a lack of beds in the city, or at least nice ones with fluffy pillows and a view. Fortunately, the number of hotels is beginning to meet demand, especially in the small boutique sector.

There are hotels for wannabe oenologists (Miravida Soho), tango aficionados (Abasto Plaza and Mansión Dandi Royal) design geeks (Tailor Made Hotel and Home Hotel), stylish gay hotels (Axel) and luxury lovers (Faena Hotel + Universe, and the Alvear Palace Hotel).

Local design creativity, combined with international investment and the Argentinian genius for hospitality, come together successfully in the boutique hotels that we have listed, which by their nature tend to be small and book up quickly. Like many of Buenos Aires's great hotels they are often refurbished old houses, the best of them retaining some of their previous grandeur.
Where to stay

Palermo and San Telmo are the best places to snuggle into a cosy retreat. Downtown and the exclusive Recoleta areas are dominated by larger hotels popular for their proximity to the business centre. It is also the best place for budget hotels.

South of the city, in the run-down areas of Constitución and Barracas are to be found budget, or actually, dirt cheap lodgings that are mostly aimed at poor immigrant workers, known as Hoteles Familiares. Further afield and across Argentina, New Age Hotels (www.newage-hotels.com) has an impressive range of unique boutique hotels and estancias.

Property rental

If you want to rent (or even buy) a property, then contact getting in touch with one of the following:
BA House (www.bahouse.com.ar), El Cachafaz (www.elcachafaz.com), 4 Rent (www.4rentargentina.com), landinargentina (www.landinargentina.com), Living in Baires (www.livinginbaires.com), Maison Buenos Aires (www.maisonbuenosaires.com) or Room Argentina (www.roomargentina.com). Buenos Aires Habitat (www.buenosaireshabitat.com) offers the full gamut of real estate and rental services.

Our listings

Our listings follow these categories: Luxury (over US$250/AR$750 for a double); Expensive (US$150-$250/AR$450-$750); Mid-range (US$80-$150/AR$240-$450); Budget (under US$80/AR$240). We have given rates in US dollars; expect them to rise. The prices which are given include 21 per cent VAT, and breakfast.

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.

Working In Argentina

By Sam Ginsburg



Work Visa? What’s That?

In case you haven’t noticed—maybe you have been too busy counting all your General Motors stock or investing in oil futures—the world is in something of an economic crisis. Faced with the worst financial times in decades, many people are now taking drastic measures. One of those measures is moving to foreign countries. The thinking is simple: If I’m going to be slugging through a crappy, low-paying job at home, why not test my luck at finding a crappy, low-paying job abroad? However, the more important question (for us at least) is this: is Buenos Aires a good place to hide out until the recession goes away? If I show up with nothing more than a passport and a prayer, will I be able to find work?

The short answer is: yes. The long answer is a bit more complicated. With relative ease, anyone can get under-the-table work in Buenos Aires. The trick is knowing where to find it. First of all, it helps to be able to stay in the country for some time. The Argentine government and their lax tourist visa policies make this very easy. It is common practice amongst expats to extend the free, 90-day tourist visas multiple times, either by going to the immigrations office or by leaving the country and coming back (thanks, Uruguay). This policy allows most anyone to stay in Buenos Aires for many months, or even years, and leaves plenty of time to search for work.

There are two types of work in Argentina, “In the white,” and “In the black.” “White” work is legitimate, on the books, and often requires proper documentation. Foreigners with extended tourist visas, however, will be looking for jobs of the “Black” variety. These types of jobs function without contracts or records. While this does leave the window open for employers to take advantage of their undocumented employees by refusing to pay for services—what are you going to do, go to the cops?—this danger is countered by the interconnectedness of the expatriate community of Buenos Aires. Employers know that one negative blog or forum post could greatly hurt their chances of finding cheap, paper trail-free work in the future. This may seem like an odd use of the honor system, but generally it works.

What kinds of jobs are available to foreigners without work visas? The most popular choice is teaching your native language (usually and most effectively English, though Portuguese and French are also decent options) in either private lessons or through language institutes. Though the demand for teachers isn’t as high as it was a few years ago, there’s still plenty of work to go around. While teaching certificates are nice to have on your résumé, many times the only real qualification you need is the ability to talk. Like most freelance work, it can often be difficult at first to pick up enough hours to live off of. The key to language teaching is continuity: the longer you are in Buenos Aires, the more people you know; the more people you know, the more referrals you get; the more experience you have, the more faith language schools and other institutions will have in giving you classes. For this reason, teaching is often a good idea for people planning to stay in the city for a longer period of time.

anguage institutes will soon become your best friends and worst enemies. The positive is that they can get you classes at businesses that wouldn’t have otherwise let you past security. The negative is that you must live with the fact that the companies will pay you significantly less than what you would get for a private lesson. Furthermore, it is often necessary to work for many institutes at the same time, which can make putting together a schedule and getting to each class difficult, though far from impossible. To find a listing of institutes in the city, go to www.eslbase.com/schools/argentina. Private lessons are clearly more profitable for the teacher, though these gigs are also a lot more difficult to find, especially when starting out. Either way, teaching is a very good way to meet new people and is among the easier jobs to find in Buenos Aires.

Another industry that commonly looks for English speakers is tourism. Lots of gringos come to visit the Buenos Aires each year, so tourism companies need other gringos to speak gringo to them, making the visiting gringos feel more comfortable. This work can be as simple as proofreading brochures and websites, but can also include customer service and sales. This is an interesting and challenging field of work, and these connections can come in handy the next time a friend or relative flies down to see you.

One job opportunity that is quickly gaining steam among expats is telemarketing. It’s cheaper for American and European companies to export these jobs overseas, and they need fluent English speakers to speak with their clients. Of course, the companies don’t tell their clients that they are taking advantage of cheaper overseas labor. So you could end up in an awkward situation, like being from Arkansas, sitting in Buenos Aires and telling people that you are calling from Las Vegas. One drawback of telemarketing work is that while your bosses make dollars or euros, you still earn pesos. But nobody said that life, or working in “black” in Argentina, was fair.

Often, the best pay comes with online correspondence jobs with companies in the US or Europe. These jobs allow for flexible hours, and since they pay in dollars, these correspondence jobs come with the added benefit of the international exchange rate. All those seeking these jobs really need is an internet connection and a dream. This is often the path of journalists, graphic designers, proofreaders and other professional writers. However, like teaching, it will take tenacity and determination to scrape up enough work to stay afloat.

All the foreign job-seeker in Buenos Aires needs in order to find work in the “black” in Buenos Aires is creativity. But be prepared to take on a mix of many different jobs, or changas. Good places to look are JobsAbroad.com and ZonaJobs.com.ar, though it is also very important to constantly be checking travel and expat forums for new opportunities. Remember to keep your ears open for any type of visa-free work, and don’t be afraid to try out industries you had never thought of before.

Working off the books is possible in Buenos Aires, if you are willing to do your part. There aren’t any bailouts when it comes to illegal job-hunting, but if you stay focused and keep on your toes, you probably won’t need one.

Sam Ginsburg
LPBA Staff

30 Unforgettable things to do in Buenos Aires

1. San Telmo: On a Sunday morning San Telmo sometimes seems close to being a tourist trap but the antique fair and the atmosphere still make it worth a visit. I live in San Telmo and if you want to avoid the crowds then come on a weekday. The fair is only on Sundays but San Telmo is worth wandering around on any day of the week. Some of the restaurants around the plaza are overpriced and not very good but stop in at Bar Dorrego on Defensa for a snack.

2. Recoleta Cemetery: Must be one of the great cemeteries of the world. Fascinating to wander among the tombs.

3. Teatro Colón: The city’s great opera house. Performances are relatively inexpensive but if you’re not into opera or classical music then, at least, take a tour which will show you not only the beautiful auditorium but take you backstage. Closed for renovation until May 25, 2010.

4. Tango at the Ideal: I don’t dance and I’m not a fan of the fancy tango shows for tourists but I do enjoy watching others dance, particularly ordinary people. The Ideal is one of those old style places with tango dancing on the upper floor. In the afternoons, after the tango lessons, the place will be filled with a mostly older crowd. Even if you don’t go for the dancing, the Ideal is a gorgeous place to eat or have coffee.

5. Madres de Plaza de Mayo: Thursday afternoons at 3:30, the mothers of the disappeared still march every week inthe plaza. After their march, which lasts thirty minutes, the madres gather in front of the Casa Rosada for a short speech. It’s worth staying and listening.

6. Café Tortoni: the oldest and most beautiful of the cafés in the city. Mostly a tourist spot now but still worth the visit.

7. Plaza San Martín: a nice shady area in the heart of the city. Plenty to see and do around there so the plaza makes for a nice place to take a break. Go up to the top of the English Tower for great views and then take a look inside the old train station. Borges lived just a few steps from the plaza.

8. Stroll down calle Florida: not the best shopping and you’re likely to be hounded by touts trying to sell you leather jackets or other overpriced goods but the pedestrian street still has an energetic appeal to it. There are some great buildings in the area. An easy one to explore, since it’s a shopping mall, is Galería Pacifico; the top floor is a cultural center that usually has very good exhibitions. If you’re hungry then the Richmond is an interesting place to stop; it’s one of the places that Borges frequented.

9. La Boca: Oddly, it’s one of the least desirable neighborhoods in town but it’s also the most touristy. Actually, it’s only one small area of Boca that has found its way into practically every book’s photograph of Buenos Aires. I do think that the picturesque small street of Caminito is a tourist trap (and the tour buses lined up there seem to prove it). The colorful street was the idea of artist Quinquela Martin, whose paintings I think are superb. His nearby house and studio are now a museum of his works and should definitely be visited.

10. Fútbol! While we’re talking about Boca, if you’re a football fan (or soccer to those in the US) then a game at Boca is a must. If you’re not a fan of the sport, then you can probably skip this one though it’s still an interesting experience.

11. El Ateneo: Simply one of the most incredible bookstores in the world. Located at Av Santa Fe 1860 in a splendidly restored old theater.

12. Manzana de las Luces: historic tunnels under 18th century Jesuit buildings.

13. Palacio San Martín: Only a hundred years old but once a massive home for one of Argentina’s wealthiest families. Guided visits on Thursday and Fridays.

14. Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernándes Blanco: nice small collection of Spanish-American art in a lovely neocolonial house.

15. Plaza Carlos Pellegrini: the plaza itself is nothing but there are some fantastic buildings here, particularly the two that are now the Brazilian embassy and the French embassy. Walking down Av Alvear towards Recoleta provides a glimpse of the luxurious life in Buenos Aires.

16. Palermo Parks & Botanical Gardens: very nice green spaces and a decent zoo.

17. Palermo Chico and around: more examples of massive houses. Nice area for walking and looking at the architecture.

18. Museo de Arte Decorativo: not necessarily a great collection by any means but a good opportunity to visit what was once one of the country’s grandest single-family homes in the early 20th century.

19. Palermo Viejo: Many people love this area. It’s not really my favorite but worth a visit. Borges was born here though it surely has absolutely no resemblance to the Palermo of his childhood. Still, it’s worth the visit.

20. Subte A line: the only subway line in the city that still has the old wooden cars. Board at Perú station and ride out to the Castro Barros stop where you can visit one of the city’s wonderful cafes: Las Violetas at Rivadavia 3899

21. Av Corrientes: browsing the many used bookstores on Corrientes in the evening is one of my favorite activities. A crowded street, some decent places to eat, and some very tacky theaters. Zival’s on the corner of Corrientes and Callao is a good place to pick up tango CDs.

22. Av de Mayo: the best architecture in the city. Start at Plaza de Mayo and walk towards Congreso. There’s an entire book that discusses nothing but the architecture of this avenue. Take your time and enjoy the scenery.

23. Xul Solar Museum: My favorite museum in Buenos Aires. MALBA is a close second but there’s something mystical about the watercolors of Xul Solar. He’s not very well-known outside of Argentina but I consider him to be a great artist. The museum is in his former home and is itself an excellent renovation, worth visiting if you have any interest in museum spaces.

24. MALBA: Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires supposedly has one of the best collections of contemporary Latin American art. The modern building is another great example of architecture for museum spaces. (Ok, in my life in the US I was involved with a couple of library renovations so I pay much more attention to library and museum spaces than the average person!)

25. Mataderos: I don’t think many tourists make it out to Mataderos for the Sunday fair. It’s quite a ways out but for those interested in life in rural Argentina and gauchos then it makes for a nice outing.

26. Clásica y Moderna: a charming, romantic little cafe, dark wood, quaint bookstore in the back, live music in the evenings. Find it at Callao 892.

27. Daytrip to Colonia in Uruguay: board the ferry for the trip to the small, historic Portuguese town of Colonia del Sacramento – a World Heritage site.

28. Estancia: Visit an estancia around San Santonio de Areco, spending the night if possible. I usually recommend El Ombú. When we were there two years ago we practically had the place to ourselves. Depending upon when you visit, you might not be so lucky but it’s still small enough that you should find it very enjoyable. There are also many other estancias located around the pampas.

29. Boedo: one of the barrios in the southern part of the city that doesn’t get much attention. Boedo is particulary important in the history of tango and literature. Several nice restaurants and cafes in the area.

30. Asado and Parrilla: If you’re lucky and know someone living here, you may get invited to asado at a local’s home. Otherwise, you have to try one of Argentina’s famously huge steaks at a parrilla in the city. Generally, I avoid any restaurant that has a stuffed cow at the front door. The small parillas in the barrios are often better than the fancier restaurants but it’s a hit-or-miss effort. I’ve always had a good bife de chorizo at Chiquilin (Sarmiento 1599), a very traditional restaurant.

Courtesy: http://baires.elsur.org